In the ancient Akhmim, the largest town in Egypt’s Sohag Governorate, stands the legacy of Fawaz Al-Tahtawi. This devoted father and grandfather constructed a house to provide for his beloved family, a symbol of enduring love and dedication.
- Fawaz Al-Tahtawi, upon retiring from his position as the manager of the Bank of Alexandria's central Sohag branch, embarked on a unique architectural endeavor. He chose Pharaonic stone for his home, creating a distinctive landmark that stands out amidst the surrounding buildings.
- Within the family home, Fawaz Al-Tahtawi meticulously preserved a cherished black-and-white photo album, chronicling the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s.
This album holds the memories of a young Fawaz, who, like many from Upper Egypt and Akhmim, found solace in visiting the shrines of Allah's pious worshippers.
The first photo, dated to the early 1990s, captures Fawaz alongside his revered late Sheikh, Mohamed Al-Hawashi. The Sheikh, a guiding presence, accompanied Fawaz to Friday prayers, dhikr (Allah praise) sessions, and the birthday celebrations of the Prophet's family, where Al-Hawashi served as the Sheikh of the order.
- Al-Tahtawi used to travel to Cairo every year to partake in the revered Big Night of Sayeda Zainab’s Birthday Celebration since 1955.
- In this photo I took with my phone, here I am standing alongside my grandfather. Despite his preference for his personal camera, he welcomed my documentation efforts, sharing my passion for preserving memories.
Many often mistake me for Fawaz's son rather than his grandson, due to the closeness of our bond. From the moment I was born, my grandfather took me under his wing, forging a unique and special relationship. He accompanied me on every journey, both near and far, and I was a constant presence by his side.
Our deep connection fostered a remarkable likeness in character. He imparted to me his profound spirituality, his reverence for Allah, the Prophet, and the Prophet's family. He shared with me tales of love, pious people, and the wisdom they bestowed upon him, as well as his reflections on their teachings. In our private moments, I was captivated by his conversations on how to lead a life dedicated to pleasing Allah and His Messenger.
- The Sayeda Zainab Birthday Celebration holds a place of paramount importance in my grandfather’s life. About five years ago, he began including me in this annual pilgrimage. Through these experiences, I came to understand that it was far more than just a journey; it entailed extensive preparations well ahead of the event.
For my grandfather Fawaz, the preparations began with the purchase of a sheep.
- I had the opportunity to attend the Moulid (birthday celebration) with my grandfather once before the mosque closed due to the coronavirus pandemic and underwent renovations. Four years later, with the mosque reopened and the Moulid resumed, I accompanied mu grandfather again this year, embarking on a journey that unveiled new depths of experience and tradition.
- A few hours before our journey from Sohag to Cairo, our preparations began in earnest. The second crucial step involved slaughtering a sheep at my grandfather Fawaz's house, meticulously cutting the meat, and packing it into airtight bags. This meat would later be cooked in Cairo and distributed during the Big Night to the devotees of the Prophet's family and the visitors at the Sayeda Zainab Birthday Celebration.
- Each year, my grandfather gathers visitors from our village for this sacred journey.
This archive photo, taken a few years ago, features Mahmoud Al-Sharif, the head of the Al- Sadah Al-Ashraf (Revered Descendants), alongside Dr. Abdulhadi Al-Qasabi, the Sheikh of Sheikhs of Sufi Orders and the head of the Supreme Council for Sufism.
- In Cairo, my grandfather also welcomed visitors from the city's residents, including Sheikh Khaled Wafi Al-Rifai, the dean of the Wafi House and deputy Sheikhdom of the Sufi Orders.
- Upon our arrival in Cairo, accompanied by 15 individuals from Akhmim, we made our way to Marzouq Al-Hanafi Street in the Sayeda Zainab area, where we were met by the bustling crowds of the city.
I could see the anticipation etched on my grandfather's face, a reflection of the four-year wait to return to this cherished place.
- During the Sayeda Zainab Birthday Celebration, drum and flute bands roamed the 'services holders' from Fajr (dawn) until Al-Isha’ (evening) prayer.
These bands distribute food, drinks, and votive offerings to the visitors of Sayeda Zainab.
- While recovering from cataract surgery, he stayed in a rented house, with his medication close at hand, conserving his energy for the anticipated Big Night.
Despite the travel fatigue and the doctor's advice to avoid light and sunlight, he was steadfast in making the annual journey.
- Throughout the celebration and leading up to the Big Night, he remained at home, welcoming friends, including those who traveled from Aswan for the occasion. Yet, he never missed an opportunity to inquire about his health and share congratulations on the birth of Sayeda Zainab.
As the celebrations commence, hundreds gather in front of the shrine.
A strong security presence ensures that the Birthday Celebration days pass smoothly, preventing thefts and stampedes both inside and outside the shrine.
Inside the shrine, followers of the Zainabiya School, under the guidance of Sheikh Alaa Al-Din Bakir, meticulously prepare for the celebration. A key moment is the gathering outside the shrine, readying to place flowers at the sacred site.
In front of the shrine, devotees of Sayeda Zainab congregate in large numbers, offering prayers and reciting Surat Al-Fatiha in honor of the Prophet's granddaughter.
Within the shrine, two graves are situated between the women's and men's prayer areas,
Marking the resting places of Abdulrahman Al-Aidarous, a Yemeni scholar, and Mohamed Al-Atris, the brother of Sheikh Ibrahim Al-Desouqi, an esteemed Egyptian Sunni Sufi imam and the last of the four Sufi imams of the Desouqi order.
Everyone peers through the iron partition at the green marble structure marking the resting place of Sayeda Zainab.
It is visible only through the bars, as there is no entry door.
Some Sufis form a circle inside the Sayeda Zainab Mosque to praise Allah after performing the Fajr prayer.
The mosque is illuminated, and the hearts of devotees and visitors, previously disappointed, are filled with joy on the evening of the Big Night.
The night's splendor reaches its peak with the arrival of Mahmoud Yassin Al-Tuhami, who begins his eulogy of the Prophet Muhammad and his family.
Visitors navigate through the circles of dhikr (Allah praise) and chanting, while I document the unfolding events with photos and recordings.
Due to his health condition, my grandfather remained in his position, while his companions—Shaaban Al-Bayda, Al-Sayed Al-Bawab, Rady Attia, and Sheikh Ramadan—who traveled with him from Akhmim, attended the celebration.
Forty-three years after the house's construction, the joy of the Big Night has returned, as the doors of the Sayeda Zeinab Mosque reopen to devotees of the Prophet's family.
A new photo finds its place in my grandfather Fawaz Al-Tahtawi's cherished album.
